After seeing Wayne Anderson's infills at the MWTCA Fall 2001 meet in
Franklin, Tennessee and reading the threads on Badger Pond and the
Oldtools List about making infill planes, the seed was planted in my
mind that maybe I, too, could successfully fabricate one of them. My
first attempt was an infill 3/4" rabbet plane. I did some research
on the internet about making one and started right in. The result was a
fully functional plane, but it was not quite the quality I would have
liked, i.e. the fit and finish and the size of the mouth were not quite
as good as I had hoped. About this same time, I became aware of the
Shepherd Tool Co. plane kits and ordered one thinking that it would
enhance the experience to have specific instructions about making an
infill.
I received the kit towards the end of April 2002 and started assembling
it early in May. My kit was one of their early versions before they
offered pre-cut wooden infill parts but did include a cast brass lever
cap. The time estimates that Doug and Ben from Shepherd Tool have cited
were fairly accurate, although the whole process took longer than I
would have liked, but that was because of all the other projects I
started while working on this plane.
The kit contained the sides and sole of the plane pre-cut, so
construction started with filing the compound angles on the tails and
pins. Next, the throat plate was installed at the back of the mouth on
the sole and the forward edge of this piece was filed to form a 45
degree angle from the bottom of the sole to the top of the throat plate.
To assemble the shell of the infill, the sides and sole were put
together and a temporary peining block installed to keep the shell
square. The peining process was a little daunting at the start, but it
is actually fairly easy and straightforward. It is amazing to see the
metal move and fill in the gaps in the dovetails, all from a little tap,
tap, tap.
After assembling the shell of the plane, the next step is making the
infill to stuff it. I used cocobolo to make a closed tote instead of the
open tote suggested with the kit. I did this because I liked the looks
of the handle on the Spiers panel plane that I have and it was an option
offered by Spiers for the No. 7 smoother. I looked at all the planes I
have with closed totes, checked several books and the net, decided which
shape I liked the best and then copied the tote on the Spiers panel
plane that I have. I really like the elongated horn of the Spiers style.
In hindsight, I would have made the base a little wider and the handle
at more of a forward angle for aesthetic reasons. I also would have made
the bun taller and more curved. It is actually fairly comfortable to
use. This is actually the most exacting and time consuming part of the
project.
The next step was to flatten and true up the surface where the iron is
bedded. This consisted of filing the infill until it matches the angle
of the throat plate and sole. Next the lever cap was installed. and
finally, the iron was bedded using the traditional soot method. All that
is left at this point is to sharpen the blade, flatten the sole and do
the final cosmetic work to the exterior of the plane.
I'm very happy with the result. This plane works well on all the wood
I've thrown at it, with the exception of some wenge. The throat opening
is less than .001" and on domestic hardwoods I've been able to
plane with or against the grain with no tearout. It also handled a piece
of birds-eye maple that I have with no tearout. I encourage anyone to go
ahead and make one, the hardest part is getting started. The skills it
takes to make a plane are similar to the skills needed for woodworking
with handtools, and it really is much easier than I thought it would be.
For me it is very rewarding to make a tool and be able to use it
regularly on the projects I am involved in.
